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GM used these three transponder keys from around 1997 to around 2009. Of course, the B111-PT was introduced before that, as well as a couple others but throughout those years, little over a decade, one, if not all three of these keys were used.
WHY A KEY FAMILY
Why I've decided to talk about three keys in one presentation? The reason is because they're essentially the same. What I'm saying is that everything I'm about to tell you is more true than untrue. Not only will it help your inventory, but it's also going to help you wrap your mind around what you're doing. These facts will help you decide if you want to stock all three different part numbers or if you want to stop less than that.
All three of these keys use the same chip and it's the Magamos 13. Magamos 13 is a fixed code chip so it's going to be reusable. This chip is easier to work with.
THE TEST KEY
About the test key, you can use one test key for all three of these transponder keys and that is the B86 key.
Knowing that you can take out a chip out of an existing key, put it in a new shell and reprogram it if needed is really handy to have some chipless keys available. Check the PDF document to get at my main point.
You can stock all three different ones. By now, you know how similar they are, but you’ll that the B97 and the B103 look pretty similar while the B99 has a much larger head.
And from my personal experience I have that you can use the B103-PT key in place of the B97 and the B99. However, there is a possibility that due to the blade length differences between the keys, you could find yourself in a situation where one of them may not work.
THE CODE SERIES
There's a few code series that are used with these keys and I have them listed in the PDF.
Now let's get into another really important point and that is how to cut these keys. How do you duplicate them? This GM10 cut key can give people a lot of grief. So, I'm going to do two things.
DEMONSTRATION (CUTTING WITHOUT USING ADAPTERS)
Set up your key machine and get the key that you're going to duplicate. As you can see in this key, there are a couple of low spots. I did that on purpose because if you look on the groove that we're going to align the key, there's not a lot of meat on the bone so to speak. And so that is where all the problems come in. I'm going to show you but if you struggle make sure to get the adapter in the notes below.
Use the A jaw and then install the key. A lot of times you put the key in like this using a tipstop. The reason I do not like to do that is because you don't have a lot of grip.
What you need to do is to get all the extra meat to clamp the key because that will stabilize it. So, if I don't do that there is a higher risk of having problems. Put the key in like this and use tipstop at the end.
Do the same thing while installing the blank key. Once done, turn on the machine and start cutting.
Note: Slowly shave back and forth to make sure everything’s good.
Once the side is done, buff the key and flip it to the uncut side. Remember to install the key the same as before to avoid problems.
There you have it. There wasn't a lot of meat on this key, which is something that you can deal with rather than a lot of metal begrip. At the same time, we were able to get it done by just using the standard A jaw. It proves the point that any key machine, four-way jaw or a two-way jaw machine on side A or 1, you can duplicate it.
I really hope you found this information helpful, and that you understand the differences and the similarities between these three different transponder keys. I'd love to know if you’d stock heavy in the B103, and just a few of the others, or do you like to have all three? Thanks, and we'll see you next time.