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The HO01 Honda Acura transponder key is not in the top 10. However, the information is essential, especially when it comes to cutting the key. And before I get started, make sure that you download the PDF. It's a quick sheet with all of the information about the HO01 Honda Acura transponder key. A common mistake with the HO01 PT transponder key is the O and a 0 next to each other, making it H001 instead of HO01.
The HO01 transponder key was used from about 2003-ish to 2005. And the reason why it didn't hit the top 10 list is because of its short period. If you think about the most popular keys, they will have the most prolonged period of vehicle coverage, so that's why that didn't happen on this one.
As for the chip, it uses the Magamos 13, and it is a reusable chip. Meaning if you harvest it out of the existing key, you can put it in a new shell and reprogram it to a different vehicle.
For the test key, the part number is HO01-Test, but sometimes I recommend using the chipless key. It is because, on this key, there is a good pricing difference between the chipless and the standard metal-headed key that you could cut and try it out on or sell your customer as a Hide-A-Key that they can put underneath their vehicle.
As far as the chipless keys, I recommend the JMA chipless, and the part number for this key is TP00 HOND-31.P. The same chipless key will be used for the HO03 and the HO05, so this is a good one to have in stock.
The code series is technically K001-N718. Sometimes you'll see it listed as a K001-N999, but technically it's a 001-718. This means you could have a K001 or an N001 or some of the other letters between them.
If there is one key in all keys, high security, and standard keys, this is probably the most challenging key to cut. You might be saying, 'I thought the edge style key like the B106 is tricky.' However, when it comes to duplicating this key on a duplicator or even sometimes on an automatic machine, people have a very difficult time duplicating this key. Honda keys are cut very interesting. There is a four-track key, and there is a web on the outside of where the keys get cut. There's metal between both sides of the keys, web, where the cuts and the thickness of that key affects several things. If it's too thick, it's not going to even go into the door lock or the ignition. And if it's too thin, you only flip it over to duplicate the other side when you pop it over. You're not going to be able to get it clamped down to duplicate the other side. I've been there myself, and it is not fun. That's why you must understand the specs of what you have going on.
This is the information that you need to know. The factory webbing between the two cuts on each side of the key, web, must be a .035 in diameter. Get your calipers out and make that because having too thick or too thin of web will get you in trouble. To avoid those problems, get a high-quality blade because it has a lot to do with just the total thickness of this key, the total height and width, and all of that.
The machine used is the Silca Swift plus. It's one of the best entry-level yet high-quality high-security duplicators. But if you have the automatic electronic code cutting machine price security, you can use it. In this case, I want to go over manually because doing this without a lot of experience, it's tough.
The key that we're going to be duplicating is a code cut key. This is the webbing, and it's so important that it is perfect at a .035. Always check that out; make sure it's even along on both sides and all around.
Put the tip stop, put in the key with your finger on top of it to get all the cut in the jaw and make sure that it's flat, so there is a grip on the web on both sides. Then tighten it.
Remember: Anytime you use tip stop to a high-security key, make sure you can always get all the cuts on the jaw and not hanging off.
Once it is nice and tight, look down to make sure that it looks flat, and if it is not or there's a little bit of an angle, don't cut it. You got to get it perfectly flat.
Install the blank key by doing the same similar thing.
Once cutting the key, treat it as if you are tracing it. When you get your depth set, tighten the knob on it and get to work nice and slow. Do this on the other end as well.
Time to cut the other side. Flip the blank key and install it again correctly by doing the same process and precaution as before. For the key that you are duplicating, you can keep this existing key in the way it is or flip it around. In this case, since the existing key is a new code cut key, I chose to leave it as it is and duplicate the same side again. However, if your current key is highly worn, better flip it around.
Always check if the web has a nice and tight grip and see if the key is flat.
And that is everything that you need to know about the HO01, not the HOO1. Let me know what questions you have in the comments below. I hope this was helpful and that you download the PDF. Thank you, and we'll see you next time.
