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By now, I am sure that you are familiar with or like the Framon 2 code machine. I keep trying to make the case to help you be better at locksmithing, being a lock boss. But at the end of the day, something that is important that a lot of times can be overlooked is how easy it is to calibrate. Because let's face it, when we do need to calibrate a key machine in general, we always need to do it in a hurry, and what happens is you cut a key that doesn't work. So, I will demonstrate a step-by-step couple of quick tips to help you calibrate your Framon 2 key machine. It's simple. You're going to love it.
Let's emphasize the depth side because once you understand that, going over to the spacing will be the same exact concept. This information can be found in the Framon manual, so you can check it if you have, and for the most part, I'm going to be following exactly what they say when it comes to the depth, the spacing, as well as a few different ways to do it.
Install the SC1 blank key and set its depth to .250. As you can see at .250 I have it right at the zero, so technically, that's supposed to be. Once it is set, turn on the machine and cut.
Once the cut is made, grab the calipers, these come with the machine and check the depth. In this case, the cut I made has a depth of .254.
What I did next is to set the depth at .254. To do that, insert the Allen wrench here and loosen the Allen screw.
Once it is loosened, set it aside and calibrate the dial from 0 – 4. The trick here is to hold the dial and the lever straight, then turn the dial 0 – 4. By doing this, you've kept the lever the same and switch the dial to work with where the machines at.
Since it is at .254, lock it by installing the Allen screw back.
Sometimes, when you're holding it and moving, it can not move exactly where you want it to, and you have to redo it again.
Using the same SC1 key, make another cut on it. Once the second cut is made, measure it using the calipers. It should look like this, perfect at .254.
Please bring it back down to .250, use another blank key to cut and measure. This is the result, just about perfect.
You can keep adjusting the depth of the cut. But for the most part, that's how simple it is to calibrate the Framon 2 machine as far as the depth goes.
Since you've learned how to adjust the depth measurements on the Framon machine, the same thing will apply when it comes to spacing. Exact mechanism but instead of depth, you're dealing with spacing.
When I'm cutting a key a Schlage key, look down, take out a bottom pin, and see if your cuts off or not, then adjust it. But there's a way suggested by Framon.
Framon says to do it by setting your spacing to zero and then get to .106. So make 2 full rotations because every full rotation is .050, then move up to six. .050 + .050 + .006 = .106
Next is to dial the jaw as close as possible and make sure you have the stock FC8445 cutter installed. And essentially, when you bring this together, you want to see if there's any space in between there.
There you have it. It's that simple, quick, and easy; only one Allen wrench is required. I hope that helps. Make sure to take your time because on stuff like this, the slower you go, the faster you get it done. I'd love to know what you think in the comments below and any extra hints, tips, or tricks you use to calibrate your Framon 2 machine. Thanks, and we'll see you next time!