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You all know how much I love the Framon 2 code machine. And today, we're going to have some more fun with it. But we're going to dig a little deeper, and I want to give you a little bit of extra information that will help you on the job.
So today, we're going to be cutting a GM10 cut code. It is a tip-stop key; I'm going to be using the B86 and test it into a lock when I'm done. But I want to dive into something for a minute that I believe will be helpful to you. When you get the Framon 2, it comes with space and depth manual, which is excellent to look stuff up in.
Also, if you have Gcode online, and you click the Framon as the manufacturer key machine, it's going to give you the specs you need as well. But there's going to be times wherein there where you find this space and depth information you need, it might be something new or something random, that's not listed, and when that happens, and it's a tip stop key, there is a little formula that you need to know to make sure you cut it correctly.
FORMULA FOR TIP-STOP KEYS
If you're finding the space and depth information from the Framon space and depth manual or Gcode online, with the Framon manufacturer selected, you don't need to know this. Still, in my opinion, it's good to know because one of the best parts about the Framon 2 machine is it's going to help you to become better at your job, and so it's simple information. The Framon Jaw Width has to be accounted for when calculating the tip-stop key, and that's because Framon is essentially cutting from head to tip, and space and depth information on a tip-stop key starts go from tip to head. That's how that data works, which makes sense. It's going off of the alignment point, whether that's the tip-stop or the shoulder. So this is all you need to know, like on this GM10 cut. If you were going to look it up on you on any coding program right now, look at space and depth information. It's going to tell you that the first space is 1.034, which is true, but the Framon jaw width that needs to be accounted for is 1.250. If you subtract those from each other, you're going to get a .216.216 is where we're going to dial in that first space before then we're going to align our spacing block to it. So, all you need to know is that the longhand for telling you a straightforward thing. If you have data for space and depth information that is not tailored to Framon, all you need to do is take that first space it's giving you from the tip, and you need to subtract it from 1.250 locks in that first position. It's that simple.
CUTTING TIP-STOP KEYS
Let's go ahead and cut the key. I have my space and depth information on Framon.
As you can see, this first cut right here says 1.034.
So we've converted that. We know the first cut will start at that .216, and it's time to get going here.
The first thing we're going to do here is we're just going to zero it out. Set our first step at .216. Remember that every full rotation is .050.
Set one full turn set to point .050 and continuously turn to get .100, .150, .2 or .200. Then we're going to go up here to 16. There's 15. There's 16.
Put our spacing block in. It says number three, and the reason it says that because the spacing between the depths here is at .092.
Once it is in, we're going to align the spacing block with this first depth. So let's put a little bit of an angle and get it right and there. You see, that's downright perfect.
At this point, it's just time to get our key put in. Get our key put in, and we're just going to tip-stop it. Get it clamped down nice and tight.
We're good to start cutting. From space and depth information, the cut here is 1131324313. Dial-in the 1 and cut all the 1s, then I'm going to go to the 3 and cut the 3, then I'm going to dial the 2 and then the 4. In that way, it's just quicker—no need to dial it back from the CUTS given order.
Turn on the machine. And since I already have it in its first space.
I must align the first step, which is a 1, which is 0.315. So we're going to find 0.300 and get 0.15. There we go 0.315 on the first; we cut it.
Since the machine is already dialed to 1, all you need to do is adjust the SPACE to where 1 us and cut all 1s.
Once completed with 1s, we will go back to the third space because we will dial 3 and cut all 3s. Number 3 depth will be at .265. Set is to 0.250, go up to 0.260, and then five more to get to 0.265. Since it is set to .265, adjust the SPACE from where 3 is and cut it.
Once you've done all the 3s, proceed to number 2 depth, which is 0.290. Get up here to 0.300. And then we're just going to back down 0.10 to 0.290.
We're going to go over one space, which is the only one that we have not cut yet, which is a number 4 depth, 0.240. Please set it to 0.250, go back by ten, and that will get us to 0.240. Time to cut!
So we now have one side of the key done. Proceed by turning the key over, and we're going to get the other side.
Since the space and depth for the number 4, this is where I am going to start cutting.
I'm going to go back to the start here, putting the number 1 depth then and hit that again quickly. So, the number 1 is 0.315. Once again, we're going to go to .300 and then go up 15—all set to cut all 1s. Make sure you adjust the SPACE to where all 1s are located.
Okay, so now we're going to dial it back to the number 3. The number 3 depth also is 0.265. So we're going to go here to 0.250 and turn to 15 to get 265. We're going to get this one. The depth is all set, so we will adjust the SPACE and hit those with 3.
Next is to get 2, which is space is at 6. Number 2 is 0.290 depth. So we're going to get down here to .300, and then go back 10. 0.290 here we go.
We got a done key. It wouldn't be any fun unless we tried it in the lock, so let's go on and try it. Make sure it works here. Get all these little burrs off. Here we go. And it works, just like that.
Cutting a tip-stop key is just as easy as cutting a shoulder stop key, especially if you're looking at the Gcode online information with the Framon manufacturing selected or if you're using the space and depth book. But if you find yourself in a weird situation where the information you have on space and depth information is not the Framon info; make sure you remember that 1.250 jaw width to make sure you're getting your proper starting spot. I'd love to know in the comments below what you think. Thank you, and we'll see you next time.