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The H128 key is often called a T-key because the blade is twisted from its normal position. It is important because the key blade, the code series, and other stuff we'll be getting are identical to the H94 high-security, 80-bit transponder key. You can compare it to TOY44D, TOY44G, AND TOY44H, wherein the blade is the same, but the chips inside them are different. More true than untrue when it comes to the H128 key, the blade is identical, but the information you know in the H94 key will be helpful when dealing with the H128 key.
The chip inside of this key is 128 bits. It's a pretty big step up and encryption compared to the 80 and 40 bits. NXP makes the 128-bit chip and is called the Phillips 128 bit a lot of times.
THE TEST KEY AND SHELL
Regarding the test key and shell, I recommend the JMA shells part number TP00FO-24.P2. You can use that not only for the chipless shell but also as a test key. And this is where it gets a little interesting for you. The part number I recommended is for the twisted head key. And since the blades are identical, you can also use the basic H94 Chipless key. Just a little bit ago, I was talking to someone who has one of these T-keys, and they took one of the 128 chips, and they put it in an H name before shell so the blades flat like a normal key that we're used to and works perfectly fine.
It is good to stock for the test blades or the shell with that part number. You can just use it for both the test key for the H94 and this H128. That'll save you a little bit of money, inventory, and hassle.
This one key has two different code series. The first code series is the same as the H94 key, which is 10,001 to 11,500. All the specs are identical to the H94 and the H128 key.
The other code series is 1-4000. Why is this important? It is essential because if you were to decode one of these keys on a machine, you have to pick what code series you will put.
Often, when you're used to cutting a lot of keys, it's easy to put one in and decode it. And run into problems if you don't choose the suitable code series. This kind of situation where remembering that the J128 has two code series, and who knows, we could have more in the future.
Like the B111 circle plus key, it also has two code series; it has the typical ten cut code series and the G; it got a lot of people over the years until you gain a little experience.
DUPLICATING THE H128
Duplicating high-security or laser-cut keys on an automatic electronic machine is always the ticket, but there are times when maybe you can't at the moment, or you don't have one. So, using a manual key duplicator is an option. Here's how you duplicate the H94 key; you'll go through the same process when duplicating the H128.
Typically, when duplicating, we'd always want to get the key all the way in to be more secure. But in this case, on the blank key, you'll notice a tiny dip. It's like a fake shoulder. When putting the key into the machine, ensure that the phony shoulder sticks out of the machine.
On the first line of the jaw, put the tip stop. Insert the key, then put your finger on top of it while clamping it. It will ensure that the key is installed nicely and straight because any angle will cause some problems.
Once the key you are going to duplicate and the key blank are installed, start cutting.
Once done, buff the key, flip it and cut the other side using the same procedure.
What do you think about this key? What's your experience? Do you have anything to add?
I hope you find this blog about the H128 Ford high-security transponder key helpful. You can download the PDF for the factsheet. Also, check the YouTube video for more. Thank you, and we'll see you next time.