Skip to content

Flexible Key Machine?? Triton Plus Key Machine

Electronic key machines can get complicated quickly. Especially, when the user interface that you use assumes a lot of things and doesn't give you a lot of options. That is where the Triton Plus is different. It has great features that you're going to love.


Key machines were set up for the best case situations. A lot of times, we don't get the best case situation and have to be able to work with what we have. And that's something that the Triton operating system does well and gives you some great options. Today, we’ll tackle the basic menu with a lot of the great options, massive flexibility of the machine, decoding with pitfalls that comes in it, and cutting an SC1 key.

A standard cutting wheel for cutting edge style keys whether it's automotive or residential is what I prefer, however, buying the Triton Plus also means cutting everything.



Below is the main screen on the Triton looks like after you get the machine turned on. There are automobile, motorcycles, single, standard tubular and dimple.


Here’s a quick tour to Single Standard option. Type in what you're looking for eg. Schlage.


From there, you can choose SC1, SC4, SC20, or SC8. Choose SC1, and then choose the number of cut, five or six. On this screen, decide exactly what you want to do.



Hit the + sign next to align if you want to align the key.

Jaws can be switched whether S2-B or S2-A.


Explore the Input, Move, Key code, and Progression option.


On the main screen you can search by Key blank, Card #, Blitz Card, or DSD#.



Start by installing the key to the jaw.


Once the key is installed, a pop up will appear. Use the 1.0 millimeter decoder because it is the one that comes standard in the machine.


Tip: You can unscrew this and check if it is right.


Click the decode button and a pop up will appear. This is important and can't be overstated especially if you're not used to these types of machines so it's making sure the jaw is clear of debris.

Why is that important?

It is because it uses electronic calibration. So, if there are bunch of shavings and stuff around, it will pick it up, make that connection and as soon as that happens, all of a sudden, it's going to keep moving on.


The little pieces of shavings and stuff on the jaw will cause it to not decode the key properly.


Set your jaw to S2-A and hit the decode button.


TIP: When decoding, make sure that the tracer is going down in the root of the cut. That's something to keep an eye on.



If you find yourself not getting the results that you want, the reason might be dispositioned jaw. Because if you switch the jaw to S2-B and decode the SC1 key, it’s not going to decode properly. The major mistake is not having it on the right side of the jaw. Pay attention to that.



Once done decoding, install the new SC1 to cut. Hit the cut button. The screen will show you various size cutter.  It is important because if your two millimeter cutter breaks or lost it, you can switch it to a 1.5 or a 2.5 and get the job done.

Aside from that feature, I also love the speed. It allows you to cut a harder material. Change the speed to fit the key that you need to cut. For automotive keys, you can choose the cut shape; you could do more of a laser style cut compared to a standard cut.


When these settings are set, hit Cut. A reminder to clear the debris will appear, do that and please don't ever skip it. Having debris will result to an inaccurate cut of the key.

When the key is done, try it to a cylinder.


That's a nice example of some of the features when it comes to cutting a standard single sided commercial residential key. I absolutely love a lot of the features that the Triton has in it. 

For you, is that pretty cool or what? The flexibility of this machine is something to check for. Thank you, and we'll see you next time.
Previous article Why Locksmiths Struggle with Google Business Profile Verification and How to Overcome It